John Muir


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19 passed many very [ancient] small place on was to Chur. Pear & aplle trees immense in size, like oaks & fruit like acorns. No primary so far as I noticed. Some fair peaches & apricots, but small. Next day took [diligence] to [Chiveand] Italy over the Splungen Pass. Rode from 5:20 A M to 7 P M. Hot & dusty all the way, except near Summit 6945 ft alt wonderful drive up the Via Mala [Viamala] a water warn gorge & slot in the bottom of glacier canon a mere slot in some places but mostly a natural gl val like a 1000 [ ]. The road crosses it [ ] Rock line. The Via Mala opens into broad fertile valley where tribs gl came in. the gorge evidently cut towards end of gl [ ] much stratified moraine material in the wide lake-like portion of the [gen] valley. Higher the Rhine again runs in gorge

20 much down crosion here as elsewhere in the broad gen mass of the Alps. Many an old town & castle we passed in the mountains valley & much history it holds. Wonderful care of river banks with masonry. & road building but general scenery rather tame near summit trees reached to above 5500. At the summit a young [blackeyed] Italian woman in the diligence told me excitedly mostly with signs “on-side Suisse on Italis, just below summit our baggage [ ] searched the girl [ ] very polite & [ ]-like speaking to the Italian Official, but she made signs in showing one a can of coffee that he had smuggled it & it & seemed proud of the feat. She snuffed a little & carried lunch with a bottle of claret had great [fun] trying to speak to her a French woman helped as interpreter. A few small gls [glaciers]

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Original journal dimensions: 8.5 x 14.5 cm.

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Holt-Atherton Special Collections, University of the Pacific Library

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John Muir, journals, drawings, writings, travel, journaling, naturalist