45 ft dia [diameter] on Ell River 43 “ “ [ft dia] 30 to 50 per acre of primeval redwoods. Mixed with grandis very tall & slender & sitchensis. The latter always next the sea some v [very] large 6 to 8 ft or even more & 150 to 200 ft h [high] A few [stormbroken] ones within reach of salt [sand] shorn off in rounded masses grows rapidly—trees 3 to 4 ft dia [diameter] not more than 100 yrs [years] old. Easily killed by fire therefore most ab. [abundant] When not liable to it in boggy ground or foggy spray-dashed slopes along shores. Well called [tideland] spruce—perhaps the largest tree on the Pacific slope or in America after Sequoia. Sugar pine & doug sp [douglas spruce] its only rivals as to size.
Alder pine is also grandly developed 5 to 6 ft dia [diameter], maple also rather common in ravines along shore laden with polypodium in huge masses, also on doug sp [douglas spruce] & hemlock. Ferns—[pteris] maiden hair aspedium etc. Notable growth v [very] characteristic of the coast on edge of forest is the rubus nutkanus old & rather scruby [scrubby]. Broad lved [leaved] maple—large mossy & tufted with big bosses of polypodium in all the ravines. Dug up a few rhododendrons from beneath sequoia wrapped moss about roots & kept them moist in bricket to take home. V ab [very abundant] on Rogue River & Smiths on dryish mtn [mountain] slopes as well as in woods in Del Norte & Humboldt Cos [counties]. Some 10 ft h [high] [Winding] about in woods & ravines. thro majestic forests a glorious drive, 48 ms [miles] to Orriks [Oricks] had hard beds. Creamery here. Sep 6 Drive to Arcata 40 ms [miles] arrived at 3 P.M. took steamer at 4 & arrived at Eureka about 5.30. Another grand drive thru sequoia few Douglas & grandis & Lawson.
Original journal dimensions: 9 x 15 cm.
Holt-Atherton Special Collections, University of the Pacific Library
John Muir, journals, drawings, writings, travel, journaling, naturalist