Left Sitka at 11am To-day. Enjoyed the scenery of Peril Straits again. The sail down Chatham Strait, along east side of Pernoff Island and fine and attractive and instructive showing after sculpture in formation and adornment of peaks, fronts on both shores in some places thus: (see sketch) while after sculpture has cross of ground fine valleys and basins. Work on the west side still going briskly on; on the east side more exposed to sunshine the sculpture is nearly finished. And forested. Marvelous color towards sunset. Brown and purple and blue in wavy masses, changing with light swells and ripples, mostly calm and hushed. Enjoyed it from the upper deck with Mrs. Osborn and a Frenchman. A lovely memorable evening. One peak should be named. Aug 13th Stopped an hour at Ketchan to allow passengers to see a salmon canyon and the salmon. Thousands of them were in flat boat and many other thousands in bright wild mountain stream overhung with spruce and hemlock, mossy and fantastic, the leafiest, mossiest, boggiest place imaginable, salmon in dark pool, leaping, chafing at foot of rapids. Water ouzels nodding and fitting about the shallows on the margins of the streams, not at all disturbed by the crowds of tourists, noisy and fussy in dress and talk on the rocks opposite it, only when someone fired a pistol did they fly (see note on trees) Fine sail through Gravel Channel. Marvelous nemophila blue of the ground mountains forested. Lobe over lobe to darker blue then the black of night. Some hazy red and orange. Aug 14th Charming sail through Fitzhugh Strait. Grahams Reach. Huts here and there. Bare spots on mountain along Vancouver and islands of small size. Charming day. Aug 15th Arrived Victora about 8am. Part with Osbornes and feel lonesome. The glory has departed from the company and the Queen is discrowned.
Original journal dimensions: 9 x 15 cm.
Holt-Atherton Special Collections, University of the Pacific Library
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John Muir, journals, drawings, writings, travel, journaling, naturalist