lined with sand dunes for at least twenty-five miles east and west of the town, the dunes rising into hills one hundred feet or so high, darkened here and there with low shrubs and trees. Back of the coast the land rises in a plateau with mountains three or four thousand feet high at a distance of thirty-five or forty miles. The city has a few fine buildings. Most of them, however, are low… One story. Red in color. Many in the suburbs nearly buried in drifting sand. Large number of palms on each side of the town. Probably cocoanuts. We left this port at 2:30 P.M. Charming breezy day. Few wispy clouds drifting up the coast. Sunset as usual, the sun a red smooth globe. Very large disc clearly defined until within a degree or so of the horizon, when it is quenched in a leaden haze, and black clouds. September 30. Fine breezy day. Almost cloudless at sunrise, and two or three hours after. Then fleecy wisps and bundles… Sunrise pink and purple and yellow. Sea whitened with wave-tops. Magnificent wing-shaped pair of foam-masses made by the diving of whales. Fifteen or twenty feet of their tails were visible, black, gleaming, as they plunged. Two, swimming within a few rods of each other, rose and spouted and plunged together for fifteen or twenty minutes. Never before
Original journal dimensions: 7.5 x 13 cm.
Holt-Atherton Special Collections, University of the Pacific Library
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John Muir, journals, drawings, writings, travel, journaling, naturalist