July 19th. In camp. Climbed helmet-shaped rock, 2 miles from camp, in basin of Conners or Alkali Creek. Grand junipers 8 to 6 feet in diameter, and 80 feet high. July 20th. Fine ride up Cold Creek basin, branch of Conners. Many fine Hemlocks and mountain pines and Abies magnifica. The Contorta badly damaged by larva of fly which up to rim of Matterhorn Canyon and Fork to camp at bottom. Very grand growth of mountain Hemlock, nearly to foot of canyon and grand mountain pine all day. Matterhorn canyon- a wild rough valley with a few Yosemite characteristics. Fine stream, meadow rather narrow. P. contorta nearly all dead of fire and moths. July 21st. Ride and walk to Rodger Lake. Latter half very rough, much snow. First grand views and trees. Rodgers Peak very striking, also gabled and sheerfront of rock with cleavage well developed. “He hath builded the mountains”. Rodgers Lake Mountain encircled. 2 islets with few trees. Snow in patches on south side, mostly in two glacial wombs, the west one largest and best. Charming evening light through uncolored. The north side bare except at base. P. contorta in heat with Hemlock. Lake half mile long, small irregular patches of meadow. Daises, Phlox, Cassiope, Bryanthus, Kalmia, Sedum in flower. Trout in Lake Rodgers. In O’Neal Lake, several pounds larger. July 22nd. Fine morning, hushed, calm, later slight breeze from south west. Everybody charmed. Wishing to stop a week, fishing, bathing, etc. Yesterday ate luncheon at Smedburg Lake, interesting, Long mead after passing O’Neal Lake and avalanche forest wreck 400 yards wide, or more. Some of Mountain Pine 2 feet in diameter, broken off near ground. The strongest rooted of all trees, all others uprooted, mostly Mountain hemlock. Some more than three feet in diameter,
200 years old. Rodgers Canyon, a wide valley, except at head, 1 mile long. Leaving valley, the trail runs along the rim of Grand Canyon, a mile or two, then turns north west up Piute Creek and down over very rough flowery, miry rocks into Pleasant Valley-a wide lakey tributary of Grand canyon, very large stream. Log bridge, Yellow pine, and Abies concolor, very large, 200 feet. Lilies-parvium abundant. Gilias, Larkspur, etc., Rubus, Nutkanus in flower.
Original journal dimensions: 9.5 x 15.5 cm.
Holt-Atherton Special Collections, University of the Pacific Library
John Muir, journals, drawings, writings, travel, journaling, naturalist