John Muir


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Drove to Castle and greatly enjoyed the fine architecture, especially that of the “Pearl Temple” or Mosque, which is of marble, noble in simplicity of style and fineness of finish. Later, drove to the world-famous Taj Mahal. This most exquisitely fine and beautiful in style and finest tea gardens and pools in front of it. October 14th. Also drove across the Jumna on Pontoon bridge to another very beautiful mosque, etc. Left Agra Fort at 11:00 A.M.. Arrive Delhi 9:00 P.M. October 15th. Drive around Delhi all day viewing the Castle, great walls and gates marked in history, and at 9:00 P.M. left for the Deodar forests and snowy mountains about and above Simla. October 16th. Arrived Kalka 5:00 A.M. and at 5:30 was sweeping wildly up the mountains on my 58 mile journey to Simla, in what is called a “Tonga”, a stout covered cart drawn by 2 horses, frequently changed ([about] every half hour). It is drawn by the pole, which is attached to stout saddles. Never before enjoyed so wild a ride on mountains or elsewhere. Except in rounding the sharpest curves the horses went at a mad gallop without any whipping or very little. Occasionally on extra heavy grade, a horse would show signs of distress when he would be gently brought to a standstill, and the attendant guard who rode on a step behind the vehicle, ran by his head, petted him by patting his neck, made show of adjusting harness, then encouraged thus he would dash off faster than before. We arrived at Simla before 12 (a few minutes) notwithstanding we had to pass hundreds

Date Original



Original journal dimensions: 11 x 16.5 cm.

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Holt-Atherton Special Collections, University of the Pacific Library

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John Muir, journals, drawings, writings, travel, journaling, naturalist