John Muir


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marble outside and in, over-decorated. Start at 3:46 for Jacksonville, Fla. At 7:10 supper at Richmond; pass Alexandria, Petersburg. Weldon, etc. [Nov 11]. Skimming thro’ Georgia, flat watery, scrub Virginium and Taeda pine and Taxodium, live oak, laurel o, water o, willow, etc. with fine liquid amber and Nyssa, bits of color mostly draped with long moss, gray, dismal, few thrifty farms, few pear orchards; Kiefer and LeConte; mighty grim country along coast. Arrive Jacksonville at 1:10 P.M. lunch at big hotel, fine trees in streets and squares, palms, etc. A great hotel and railroad center. Arrive St. Augustine at 5 P.M. thro’ long leaf pine and pal; open country curiously level, scarce a cut or fill 2 ft deep all the way; liatris, golden rod and a few other daisy like comp a among general growth of dwarf palmetto; young long leaf p the handsomest of all baby pines, bright yel green needles radiant firm, electric, each tassel standing out in rich cluster, light between the needles except in center wh looks dark, a hopeful band and most charmingly beautiful. [sketch] We drove around town until dark, saw ancient city gates, old castle, fine cathedral and huge hotels. We stopped at Alcazar, Moorish architecture, cool arched colonnade cloisters; central square with fountains, electric lights, strange bewitching effect; coral concrete, the whole evidently the work of a good architect. This is one of a grand series of hotels along the E coast, Flagler Standard Oil follow; hotels full only 3 or 2 mos, don’t pay. Why Moorish architecture instead of American? [Nov 12]. Start for Miami at 10:30 P.M., drive in bus a mile to hotel; passenger who proved to be owner much provoked by Sargent saying the mile was in sand. No sir, said Hotel Irish McDonald; what then, shell? No sir, not shell; well what? Pavement; it proved to be crushed coral wh makes good smooth road but is dazzling white and hard on eyes. The ride along the Indian River very interesting and novel and strange and beautiful and wild. First open long leaf p forest,

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Original journal dimensions: 9 x 15 cm.

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Holt-Atherton Special Collections, University of the Pacific Library

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John Muir, journals, drawings, writings, travel, journaling, naturalist