John Muir


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Aug 5th. Go aboard the Queen and start for Victoria. Dined up town. Saw few plants, all dusty except fine Sequoias in Government Square. Aug 6th. Once more in the Alaska or British Columbia wilderness of islands and channels. Everybody delighted with the wonderful scenery. Aug 7th. Wondrous beauty of Grendill Channel, partly cloudy, cascades coming out of fleecy clouds, showing only lower ends in the bare margin. Mostly hid in marvelous crop of trees. Sheer slopes, sublime in extent, superbly feathered. Wreathing of clouds, very fine. Call at New Ketla, a stump of Sitka spruce, 7 ft in diameter. Fine specimens of yellow cedar. Found lumneace, dogwood, etc. Aug 8th. Sailed for Wrangel. Arrived at 5am. Leave at 9.30 am. Few bergs seen from Hutli. Fine logs at Wrangel. Saw mill, mostly Sitka Spruce. Noticed a few icebergs at Sum Dum. Mostly clear. Arrive at Juneau in the midst of a glorious sunset, all charmed. Said that it is like sailing up into Heaven. But in Juneau no hint or tint of heaven was seen. Aug 9th. From Juneau to Tawkoo, after visiting Douglas Island and the Treadwell Mine and Quartz mill. Going up the Tawkoo fiord, three small glaciers are seen on the right and a deep glacier basin on the right. Next on the right, two glaciers, also high up. The Tawkoo Glacier is receding very fast. No bergs given off while we waited, unlike my first visit, when bergs kept up an almost incessant thundering. Separated by huge, rounding mountains from the Tawkoo River. Rock with few trees and overswept 2500 feet high. Good view of the Great Glacier that is a short distance up the river and descends nearly to sea level. The Norris Glacier about two miles from the Tawkoo Glacier on the same side of the fiord has receded a mile or more from its tree clad moraine. No Sabbath in Juneau. Thunder of blasting in the mines, like the very demon of Mamon. Curiosities for sale in the streets and in the stores mostly by Indian women. They have learned to refrain from blackening their faces. They demanded ten cents for allowing their babies to be photographed and hid their own faces with their hands until the money was paid. A few

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Original journal dimensions: 9 x 15 cm.

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Holt-Atherton Special Collections, University of the Pacific Library

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John Muir, journals, drawings, writings, travel, journaling, naturalist