John Muir


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this region. It is on the E side of the northern extension of the Sound, perhaps about 15 miles from the head. The snout, which descends into the sea, is about 3 ms. long. It draws its sources from a range of mountains back about 25 ms. from the coast, and drains at least 50 or 60 ms. of the range. Its gen[eral] form, as far as I have seen it is nearly as follows [rough drawing]. The main trunk measured across from a to b can hardly be less than 30 ms.; at this point most of the tributaries meet. This is far the grandest individual gl[acier] I have ever seen. We reached the island from which we obtained our store of fuel on the way to the gl[acier]s about 6:30 P.M. and here camped for the night, having spent only 5 days in Sitadaka [Icy Bay]. Oct. 30. –Calm, clear, sunny day. Had a fine sail on smooth water, the Indians having to rely wholly on their paddles. We visited a camp of Hoonas at the mouth of a salmon-chuck who received us kindly. We had seen some of them before. Here we heard that peace reigned in Chilcat and that therefore our way was clear. The reports we had previously heard were greatly exaggerated. The little hut of these Indians was crowded with food, chiefly salmon dried and tied in bunches, convenient [in] size for handling and transporting to their villages in canoes. They had caught three porcupines which lay in a corner, and a few bushels of potatoes and bags of geese and salmon eggs and boxes of fish oil made up their stores as far as I noticed. They presented us with some dried salmon and potatoes. We gave them tobacco and rice. About 3 P.M. we reached the village and found the one family which it contained, that of a chief, in the best house busily engaged in making Hootchenoo. The still and mash were speedily removed and hidden away with apparent shame. Then we were welcomed in. The usual apologies as to being unable to furnish Boston food and inquiries whether we could eat Indian food were gravely made. Then our cook prepared supper. Towards 6 or 7 o’clock Mr. Young explained the object of his visit and held a sort of service with hymn singing, prayer and sermon, mingled with familiar talk. The chief replied with grave deliberation, saying that he would be heartily glad to have a teacher sent to his people, that they were only children lost in the dark, that now he hoped the daylight was breaking. He would now do whatever he was told, would have no will of his own. This was decidedly over-good. He thanked us for coming so far to see him. Complained that some Fort Simpson Indians who had been sent {Sketch: Dead house, Kake Vil. Bear 4 or 5 ft. high}

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Original journal dimensions: 11.5 x 18 cm.

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Holt-Atherton Special Collections, University of the Pacific Library

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John Muir, journals, drawings, writings, travel, journaling, naturalist