May 11. Temperature 6:00 A.M. 64°. Calm, perfect weather, white haze around horizon. The houses of the country are built of bamboo, matting, etc. The roofs thatched with rice straw. In cities, roofs tiled dark sooty colored or lead colored. Walls wood, the best brick, stone or stucco. In temples, massive planks and beams largely used. Much fine carving, gilding, lacquer work, etc. Went ashore at 9:00 A.M. made a few purchases, silk, books, photos, etc. Visited the good ship Bayern, my first home after escaping from the hardships and privations of Russian travel. Had good time with 1st officer, who was kind to me last summer. Mr. H. Schaeffer, Offixier des Nord Lloyd, Bremen. We sailed for Honolulu at 3:00 P.M. May 12. Temperature at 7:00 A.M. 67°. Dark stormy morning with blinks of sun to iris the gauzy wave-tops. Decks all wet, even the highest. Sea black though the ship on account of great size is remarkably steady, with a scarce perceptible heave or roll. Many of the passengers are sick or sickish. The long-winged dark-colored albatross - a half dozen or so - are following the ship and one never wearies in watching the graceful sailing in the heavy blast.
Original journal dimensions: 9 x 15.5 cm.
Holt-Atherton Special Collections, University of the Pacific Library
John Muir, journals, drawings, writings, travel, journaling, naturalist