Ships coaled here faster than any other ports in the world. May 7. Temperature 6:30 A.M. 52 ½. Delightfully cool, bright bracing. Gliding on smooth Inland Sea. Great flocks of fishing boats, neater, cleaner and apparently better sailors than those of Chinese. Arrived Kobe about half past 7:00 A.M. Went ashore at 9:00, took ricky with Mr. Chapman and Mr. McEllen, called at Mr. H. Reynell, an old merchant here who invited us to luncheon at his home at 1:00 P.M. and directed our rickshaw men to take us to temple gardens, etc., in the meantime. Found magnificent specimen of Ghinko and camphor trees, the latter with noble sweep of branches, the branchlets terminating rich massy shining bosses, flowers inconspicuous, bark of trunk and main limbs deeply and evenly furrowed in regular parallel lines vertical, truly noble trees everyway hard to kill as Umbellularia. Ghinko also grand tree, rough furrowed bark, strong limbs, less spreading than camphor, also shining tree with crimson flowers growing with above. May 8. Temperature 7:00 A.M. 58. Calm, cool, bright. Beautiful harbor, innumerable fishing boats, sloops, schooners and large number of steamers, discharging and loading, wondrous busy port, nearly as much trade as that of Hongkong. Extra busy now of course, by war. The town drawn around head of bay at foot of bushy mountains. Streets not so narrow as in China, no squalor. Took rickshaw and went to “The Falls” a picturesque place at foot of mountain in fine imposing gorge, a comparatively small stream, falls about 50 or 60 feet into artificial pool. The mountain slopes brushy a fine old pine wood on left side give grandeur and beauty. Tea houses, a few shops, and farther down gorge the bottling works where nearly all the water of this fall is manufactured and sold. Bought a log of good photos. A lovely day, weather perfect.
Original journal dimensions: 9 x 15.5 cm.
Holt-Atherton Special Collections, University of the Pacific Library
John Muir, journals, drawings, writings, travel, journaling, naturalist