John Muir


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and drove to the Savoy Hotel. November 21st Walked the busy streets near waterfront. Busy port, ships of all nations coming and going. Great variety of physiognomy. The native stevedores and coal heavers, etc. Very noisy, so also pedlars - quick movements, sinewy strength and loud voices characteristic of Egyptian toilers. Glorious sunset yesterday, water and sky one in purple and orange. Bought a few things. November 22nd Glad we are to go today. Cook’s man has been to the hotel to say he would call for our baggage at 4:00 P.M. Am down at the mole and De Lesseps statue watching 2 incoming steamers. After long tedious wait the Barbarossa arrived about 7:30 P.M. and in the darkness and confusion of the ill-lighted harbor got aboard at 9:30. After coaling, started through the canal after midnight. November 23rd Reached Ismailia at 10:45, and discharged about 80 passengers with their baggage by noon, then glided on through the desert at 5 knots an hour, passed through several lakes of considerable size which lay smooth and full of reflections like fairyland. The one just east of Ismailia, very beautiful picturesque hills in distance, and patches of palms and Casuarinas irrigated by Nile Canal. Expected to reach Suez at 7:00 P.M. but owing to long detentions at the passing places, did not reach Suez until 10:45. One of the passing places is at head of last large lake. Another nearer Suez - simply a wide part of canal, and it seems wonderful to see large steamers in full glow of electric light gliding past one another at distance of only 8 or 10 feet. Altogether passed about 10. November 24th Left Suez at 2:00 A.M. Had fine views of mountainous walls of Gulf of Suez. One mass showed diamond cleaving in rich development.

Date Original

November 1903


Original journal dimensions: 11 x 16.5 cm.

Resource Identifier



Holt-Atherton Special Collections, University of the Pacific Library

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John Muir, journals, drawings, writings, travel, journaling, naturalist