John Muir


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Tombs were also very interesting. A gloriously beautiful day and full of stupendous monuments of the past. November 17th Lovely white morning, white mist, white sky all day and even the sunrises and sunsets are white or whitish. Very calm mornings these white Ind(ian) summers. Interesting to see the Arabs, etc. going to work in fields preparing for crop of barley. Animals with long yokes 10 feet or so, sometimes a small lean cow or mere heifer at one end, a gaunt long-legged camel at the other. Camels with long crooked ostrich-like make a striking show as they stalk across the desert sands, look like ostriches in their gestures as well as general forms at a distance. When walking keep their riders nodding, but fortunately these ungainly patient animals have another gait, a slow gentle shuffling trot, which seems soft, unjolting and easy. Spent the day up to 5:00 P.M. in examining the Luxor Temple, part of the ancient Thebes which occupied a great space on both sides of the river, and in selecting a lot of fine photos when we took the train for Cairo. November 18th Arrived Cairo this morning at 7:30. Spent a rather cold very dusty night in first class carriage with plenty of air, however. The sleeping cars said to be very close and chokey, the compartments very small Bought ticket at Cook’s for Sydney, 69 pounds by German Lloyd’s steamer Barbarossa, which is to arrive at Port Said about 6:00 P.M. 22nd instant. November 19th Fine weather. Bought more photos of ruins, inhabitants, etc. Wrote to Helen and Louie and sent postals to Dave, Maggie and Miriam Coleman. November 20th Start 11:00 A.M. for Port Said. In leaving Shepherd’s Hotel paid 7 different persons. Porters from 2 to 5 piastres each. Arrived Port Said 6:00 P.M.

Date Original

November 1903


Original journal dimensions: 11 x 16.5 cm.

Resource Identifier



Holt-Atherton Special Collections, University of the Pacific Library

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John Muir, journals, drawings, writings, travel, journaling, naturalist