John Muir


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beadwork, etc., and are inveterate beggars like everybody hereabouts. The view of desert bluffs and this island-dotted river is charming from the hotel. All the country is covered with drifting sand. The dust in air during all wind storms must make the climate hard for invalids, especially those with weak lungs. The sun glare on the sand is very trying on eyes and should be counted on by those contemplating a stay for health. November 15th Leave for Luxor by rail at 9:15 A.M. Arrive Luxor after very dusty, jiggly, narrow gauge ride at 4:00 P.M. and drive to Luxor House. Only 2 miles from celebrated ruins of Karnak and a few yards from the Luxor Temple. November 16th Charming morning, the river nearly a mile wide, smooth as glass, colored with reflections of the tombs, honeycombed mountain on the west side, yellow and purple, etc. Started at 9:00 A.M. to see the tombs and temples of the west side. Crossed in heavy said boat which had to be poled and pulled all the way. On other side found donkeys and until 3:00 P.M. rode from ruin to ruin, temple to temple, tomb to tomb. Arrived at Luxor Hotel tired and happy at 4:00 P.M. The last great temple we visited is still being dug out of sand and gravel, etc. It has magnificent mountain background and is well worth a long visit. The Memnon Collossi standing out in the Nile sediments were most interesting. Tombs with brightly painted and figured walls.

Date Original

November 1903


Original journal dimensions: 11 x 16.5 cm.

Resource Identifier



Holt-Atherton Special Collections, University of the Pacific Library

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John Muir, journals, drawings, writings, travel, journaling, naturalist