October 7th. Slept little in upper berth. Shoulder ached. Had to leave car for steamer to cross Ganges at 5:30 A.M. Had tea, toast, eggs, marmalade, and fruit for a rupee. River about a mile wide and muddy. The east delta is perhaps less than half cultivated. Rice chiefly. Houses of braided palm strips, thatched with grass. Kinchinjinga visible from delta plain a good way out from foothills. Large numbers of Cryptomerias have been planted about Darjeeling, they all seem comparatively young - have not seen an old one, though many who live here believe they are indigenous. In form and expression they proclaim their relationship to Sequoia. At first took them for your Sequoia gigantea. One of the largest trees we was in the Botanic Gardens was a rubber tree. The Joseph Hooker maple, Acer Hookeri has entire undivided leaves, not in the least like those of maple, fruit small. The Indian chestnut at Darjeeling, a magnificent tree, dense glossy foliage, leaves rather small. The tea plantations covering large areas of the hill slopes below the town, a marked feature of the scenery. Tea bushes 18 to 24 inches high, squat, broad, planted 4 feet apart (?); low weeds between the rows.
Original journal dimensions: 11 x 16.5 cm.
Holt-Atherton Special Collections, University of the Pacific Library
To view additional information on copyright and related rights of this item, such as to purchase copies of images and/or obtain permission to publish them, click here to view the Holt-Atherton Special Collections policies.
John Muir, journals, drawings, writings, travel, journaling, naturalist