all timbered, all colored, lake islands also colored. O. O. Howard lives here, his bust in niche of University building. [Oct 18]. Left B at 7:30 for Stowe, fine rich scenery by the way; streams in rocky gorges, hills and dales in rich combinations, small farms, many little quiet villages. Change cars 15 minutes from Burlington and again at Waterbury to electric road tho’ whole dist to Stowe is only about 40 ms. Arrived Stowe at 10 A.M. riding up grand mtn val. Started up Mt. Mansfield in buggy, 10 ms; rain, snow, mist, wind, v cold. Had on 2 overcoats, one of them huge Buffalo coat borrowed from landlord, still somewhat cold, also arctic overshoes and heavy goat robe and blanket over knees. Colors wet brightened, some lvs frost killed and brown, charming maples groves, greens, golds, reds, fresh and lovely. How the wind sang and the rain and streams: Forest of oak, maples, white, red, black birch, large trees, white pine, spruce, Abies at the top, hemlock, mtn ash with red berries v ab to top. Club moss ab v fine. Elm Buckeye. Snow 2 ft deep at top, fine Arctic scene. Abies bent with snow, every needle chased in ice from frozen rain, Crags at summit, marvellous, beautiful, with snow and ice, white, ½ white, etc. Some stones margined with crystallized snow as on rocks at Cape Prince of Wales. Grand equal gray gloom, wind roaring, a grand ride. Got horses into stable and fed them, ate out lunch in stable and took short walk, a fresh mansion in the sky; rain most of way down, arrived at Stowe at 4:15, cost $4. Tomorrow got to Jeffersonville thro’ Smugglers’ Notch at cost of 4 - 17 miles.
Original journal dimensions: 9 x 15 cm.
Holt-Atherton Special Collections, University of the Pacific Library
John Muir, journals, drawings, writings, travel, journaling, naturalist