Lunched at Trinidad, a dull [dead] lumber camp, the bay spacious & picturesque, very rocky, rocks rising in jagged pks [peaks], waves breaking finely on & over them. The wharf under a cliff. The redwood all cut hereabouts, a desolate rugged expanse of black stumps. Some few growing again. Went to dismal hotel but could get no lunch until regular hour & as we were in haste to catch steamer for Eureka we lunched on crackers & cheese bot [bought] at store. Just out of Trinidad the road skirts the [forest] along face of bluffs, The breakers roaring below & in little cove saw Inds [Indians] camped busily engaged in drying [smelt] rocks & sand covered with large patches of them. Seemed happy & well fed. Gradually climbed into the woods but saw little good Sequoia mostly Sitchensis passed many small ranches. Where the tall spruces were girdled & the branches cut of [off] about a foot from the trunk making curious ruins. Met church
goers in large numbers. Sep. 7 [September 7] Heavy slender growth of Laurel on Eel R. [river] 5 ft [feet] dia [diameter] 100 h. [high] “Pepper Flat” Stopped at Vance Hotel. Left this morning for [Scotia] 30 ms [miles] Sup [Superintendent] of largest mill on coast drove us out to where cutting was going on. Measured tree 340 ft h [high] 660 yrs [years] old about 12 ft dia [diameter] Took stage at 10.30 for [Ukiah] wild drive thru [through] woods & in along precipices in the dark. Changed horses at midnight. [One] horse “green” Pitched up only twice before 9 yrs old a dangerous drive Arrived at Dyerville at 2.30 A.M. Went to [bed] & had 3 hrs sleep [Killing] Sequoia sprouts dark of moon August 30 [men] at work Chestnut Oak straight tall 100 ft gray yel [yellow] green massive round head[ed] column like, Seq [sequoia] gigante Dry & drier ridges Sep 8 [September 8] was invited to ride in buggy with the Scotia Saloon keeper, rode 30 ms [miles] & then at Harris took stage again. as we approach & pass the county boundary—Mendocino & Humboldt—charming oak chestnut, [chrysolepis] [California] grand groves picturesque of [chrysolepis] 4500 ft on top of Rattlesnake Hill
Original journal dimensions: 9 x 15 cm.
Holt-Atherton Special Collections, University of the Pacific Library
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John Muir, journals, drawings, writings, travel, journaling, naturalist