John Muir


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29 Next day. Off in coup for St. Moritz in the Engadine . For an hour or two very hot & dusty. [Up] foaming muddy river, in rocky gorge & deep canyon sides very rough- rock hard [slaty] giving way to gl [glacial] pressure with great irregularity castles on top of [residual] knobs on sides of canon & in bottom. Earthquake taluses of large size all sunny N [North] side planted to vines. The most marvelously rough vineyard conceivable on taluses 1000 ft high or more. All vines staked & trellised over huge boulders. grass grown under the vines & on the shady S [South] side of canyon. Fine chestnut groves on [windy] bottom spots & slopes grass beneath them. charming vistas & arcades to drive thro [through]. At 3000 ft. first spruce & Larch in abundance fine drives- cooler- grateful shade- pass between two 30 huge boulders. Very blasted. Small glaciers begin to appear. [Small sketch of pointy mountains] Mtns lofty & sharp pointed by residual glaciers all the way up Mts. Bregaghia [Bregaglia] & Canales [Cannolis] very striking. A 4 parted fall on left handsome but water not very abundant. A much heavier fall from gls [glaciers] near Maloja. Much [moraine] matter at foot of lake region above here. A short thunder storm occurred on way up to Moritz. The strikes rang & echoed grandly from peak to peak. Air pleasant enough here but strange how it has got its fame as a cure above all others. Some of the many fine hotels open all winter. Lovely colors of [frescoes] both in & outside of [houses]. The green & gold of a mirror

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Original journal dimensions: 8.5 x 14.5 cm.

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Holt-Atherton Special Collections, University of the Pacific Library

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John Muir, journals, drawings, writings, travel, journaling, naturalist