25 dollars from Chur to Chiavana [Chiavenna], 14 hrs [hours] of mtn [mountain] riding over the best road conceivable with endless changes of 4 horse teams. Only 3 ½ francs or 70 cts [cents] from Colico to Menaggio & return on a fine pleasure steamer 4 or 5 hrs [hours] 1st Class. The French and Italian ladies dress with exquisite taste. There on the boat sits a lady with slim body- [large] nose & black eyes dressed in [mellon] cream silk with white embroidery & bits of jet black to match eyes perfectly harmonious in color folds proportioned as any lily. Here I consider my home journey begins, I go back to Colico- to [Chiavenna] & tomorrow start up the Engadine. Thence [by] 26 same pass to the end of a R.R. that will take me to Constance. Thence to Schaufaussin [Schaffausen]& down the Rhine to Basel, then straight to London & Scotland & New York etc. I should have gone to Milan, Florence, Rome, etc. but the weather is dreadfully hot and sickly. The mtns about Como are greatly beautified today by cumulus clouds, in snowy piles. Scarce any conifers, mostly short deciduous trees where vineyards are not. Numberless chateaus & white dots of houses. Noticed olive trees in abundance on Como for first time. None larger than ours. Much beauty of color
Original journal dimensions: 8.5 x 14.5 cm.
Holt-Atherton Special Collections, University of the Pacific Library
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John Muir, journals, drawings, writings, travel, journaling, naturalist