Next day went up Gornergrat 10,200 ft. h. [high] Zermatt about 5,300. Rode part way asked for a horse. Got a mule. The most stubborn of his race. Young man went as driver. Whipped the animal 1,000 times per mile & scolded & urged without ceasing. Much of the forest [ ] a little pine & spruce all picturesque when old a few 3 or 4 ft. dia [diameter] none over 100 ft high ¬ great numbers of tourists making this trip. Old & young ladies walking bravely the 5000 ft for the view, & boys & gray men. Met a good many women & a few men being carried up by four porters each ¬ 1 ahead 3 behind carried to be healed a fine hopeful sign. Some belief in the virtues & charms of clean wildness is to be found in some measure in everybody & it is surely growing however confused with & covered by frivolity & [sham] & fear of the devil
The view very grand looking up to Mt. Rosu & down to Gorner [gl] & around on horns [innumerable] almost a circumference of peaks. Next day to Martigny. Stop at Hotel [ ] Lady took satchel. The great [bend] in Rhone Val [valley] [caused] by heavy [sloping] [inland] tribs [tributaries] entering comparatively narrow [trunk] Tributaries came in from dir [direction] of Mt. Blanc ¬ but perhaps none from that mtn itself. The ride next day over Tete Noire pass was very interesting the road good but steep in some places ¬ Eat dinner near summit ¬ grand [downthrusting ] views some [ ] on Chamonix side. V [very] large chestnut trees 8 ft dia. [diameter] or so. Growing without cultivation larch the main tree cones on dependent branchlets all trying to stand erect. The back very yellow in foliage & [shows] well with the larch. [sketch] Girl 12 yrs old walked miles ahead of the diligence with basket on head on very hot day. Strode [freely] & erect Little girls selling fruit vineyards 2000ft ab [above] the valley
Original journal dimensions: 8.5 x 14.5 cm.
Holt-Atherton Special Collections, University of the Pacific Library
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John Muir, journals, drawings, writings, travel, journaling, naturalist