July 17. The northerly wind still prevails; cloudy all day, but dry. Left the Eskimo Long Branch at 4 o’clock in the morning and sailed to Cape Thompson, where we mean to look in to the condition of Eskimos and enquire whether they have obtained whisky, from any of the traders, contrary to la. The coast is rather low. Mountains are visible 30 miles back; low hills between. July 18. Numerous snow squalls. Came to anchor at 5 this morning in the lee of Point Hope. Norther blowing. Remained all day in company with the whaling bark Sea Breeze. A few of the natives came offshore – good natured fellows. A negro, who wintered here last season, was well used by them, for he was given the best of what they had. He had lost an axe overboard, so the story goes, and deserted on account of trouble he had over the matter with the second officer of the brig Hidalgo. He was taken on again this spring. We landed and walked through the village. Found a fine gravel beach, beautifully flowered beyond the reach of the waves. Most of the natives seem to be away – at the summer gathering, perhaps. The graveyard is of great extent and very conspicuous from the custom of surrounding the graves with poles. July 19. Cold, stiff, north wind; clear. Left our anchorage at 5 o’clock in the morning proceeded north, but found the gale too strong to make much headway and, therefore, turned back and anchored at Cape Thompson, 30 miles south of Point Hope. Watering ship all day; the wind is blowing hard. Going north again
Original journal dimensions: 11.5 x 21 cm.
Holt-Atherton Special Collections, University of the Pacific Library
John Muir, journals, drawings, writings, travel, journaling, naturalist